CarShowCruisers.com

Repair Shop

NOVEMBER

OCTOBER 20 - NOVEMBER 17

Radiator fixes primarily address leaks, clogs, and trapped air. Fixing Leaks: Add commercial Leak Sealant to the coolant/water, the product circulates and plugs minor leaks. Temporary fix for small leaks to safely reach a repair shop. This can sometimes clog heater cores or coolant channels and is not a permanent solution. Visible Cracks/Holes use JB Weld: The area around the leak must be meticulously cleaned and dried before a specialized epoxy is applied. Short-term to long-term fix for plastic or metal tanks/cores where the damage is isolated and accessible. Radiator Hoses. If a hose is brittle, cracked, or leaking at the connection point, replace it and use new clamps. Tighten the Nut or Valve, a slight tightening with a wrench will stop the leak. If the leak persists, the internal seal may need replacement. Clogs and Contamination Problem: The old coolant is drained, and a specialized radiator cleaner/super flush is added to the system and circulated to break down rust and mineral deposits. Preventative maintenance (usually every 2-5 years) to maintain optimal cooling efficiency. Blockage Power Flushing: An aggressive flushing process that can dislodge stubborn internal blockages in the radiator tubes. For radiators that are still structurally sound but show signs of reduced flow or overheating due to clogs.

CONTINUED

FROM NOVEMBER

Which Part Should You Choose? The optimal choice depends on the component's function: Best for Factory (OEM) Parts Use OEM parts when safety, exact fit, or complex electronics are critical. Safety/Structural Components: Airbags, seatbelts, collision-related body panels, and sensors (like ABS or stability control sensors). Aftermarket body panels may not fit correctly or have proper crumple zones. Complex Electronics/Sensors: Engine Control Unit (ECU), mass airflow sensors, and oxygen sensors. These often need perfect compatibility with the vehicle's computer system. Vehicles Under Warranty or Lease: Using OEM parts helps avoid potential warranty disputes and often satisfies lease return requirements.
Best for Generic (Aftermarket) Parts Use reputable aftermarket brands when cost savings are the priority and quality is less complex: Routine Maintenance Items: Filters (oil, air, cabin), wiper blades, and spark plugs. Brake Pads/Rotors: Many quality aftermarket brands offer options that are equal to or even outperform OEM standards. Performance Upgrades: Suspension components, exhaust systems, and specialized lighting, which are designed to exceed factory specifications. Older Vehicles: Vehicles for which OEM parts are difficult or expensive to source, when choosing an aftermarket part, stick to reputable, well-known brands that specialize in that particular component.

Jungle Pam Hardy is still alive.

She is the iconic figure known as "Jungle Pam" who was the companion, "backup girl," and sidekick of the legendary Funny Car drag racer, "Jungle" Jim Liberman, in the 1970s.
Here are a few key facts: "Jungle" Jim Liberman's Death: "Jungle" Jim Liberman tragically died in an off-track car accident in 1977.
Jungle Pam Today: Pam Hardy stepped away from the drag racing scene after Liberman's death, but she has continued to keep his memory alive and occasionally makes public appearances at major drag racing events and conventions.
Recent Activity: Reports and interviews confirm her presence at events as recently as 2024 (e.g., the Gatornationals).
"Jungle Pam" Hardy's birth year is cited as 1957 in one source and 1954 in another.

Restore Your Classic Car

The "best way" depends entirely on your **budget, goals, and skill level. Here is a breakdown of the process and key considerations for restoring an old car.
1. Defining Your Restoration Goal (The "Level") Before turning a single wrench, you must decide what kind of restoration you want. This choice dictates the time and cost involved: Frame-Off (Nut-and-Bolt) The *gold standard*. The body is separated from the frame, and every single component is stripped, repaired, and restored to factory-new or better condition. Cars with significant rust/structural damage, or vehicles intended for show car status (Concours).
Frame-On Focuses on cosmetic and major mechanical systems *without* removing the body from the frame. The focus is on the visible parts and drivability. Cars in relatively good condition that you plan to drive and enjoy, or for a more modest budget.
Resto-Mod A full restoration that incorporates modern components (engine, brakes, suspension, A/C) for improved performance and reliability. Enthusiasts who want the classic look with modern performance and comfort.
2. The Step-by-Step Restoration Process.Regardless of the type, the process follows a methodical path. Documentation (photos, labels, notes) is the single most important tool at every stage.

Phase 1: Planning & Disassembly:

1. Research and Plan; Determine the original specifications (colors, options) of your car. Set a realistic budget and timeline (most experts advise doubling your initial estimate for both).
2. Initial Assessment: Thoroughly inspect the vehicle for rust, structural damage, and mechanical issues. This dictates the true scope of work.
3. Systematic Disassembly: Carefully take the car apart. Use labeled zip-top bags for small parts (bolts, clips) and take hundreds of photos of how components (especially wiring) fit together.

Phase 2: Structural & Mechanical

1. Frame/Chassis Restoration: Crucial for frame-off restorations. Strip the frame to bare metal, inspect for damage, repair or reinforce, and apply a rust preventative coating.
2. Rust and Metalwork: This is where the bulk of the hard work happens. Cut out rusted sections and weld in new metal panels. Use body hammers, dollies, and body filler to correct dents and align panels.
3. Engine & Drivetrain: Rebuild or replace the engine, transmission, and differential. This includes replacing worn-out parts, gaskets, and seals to ensure peak performance.
4. Suspension & Brakes: Overhaul or replace all suspension components, including shocks, bushings, and springs. Upgrade or fully rebuild the braking system for safety.

Phase 3: Finishing & Reassembly

1. Body Preparation & Paint: Strip the body to bare metal. After all metal and filler work is done, apply primer, block-sand repeatedly for a perfectly smooth surface, and apply multiple coats of color (basecoat) and clearcoat. A quality paint job is one of the biggest restoration expenses.
2. Interior Restoration: Reupholster the seats, replace the carpet and headliner, and restore the dashboard.
3. Wiring and Electrical: Install new or restored wiring harnesses. This is a common challenge in old cars.
4. Reassembly & Detailing: Put all the restored components back together, referring heavily to your documentation. Install exterior trim, glass, and lights.
5. Testing and Tuning: Once assembled, fire up the engine and perform test drives to fine-tune the carburetor, timing, brakes, and other systems.